Whitepaper_acne_june2014
Mild or comedonal acne consists of comedones
material within, are open to the surface, and have a
acne lesions during this time. With female menopause,
(blackheads and whiteheads) only and is
• Higher androgen levels cause the overproduction of
black color due to melanin pigment in the cells that
estrogen and progesterone levels decrease as the
non-inflammatory. Inflammatory acne consists of both
sebum, which can occur during direct elevation of
were shed and decomposed. Closed comedones
ovaries fail (stop hormone production). At this point,
comedones and a substantial number of inflammatory
androgens (during both male and female puberty) or
(whiteheads) have a layer of epithelial cells that covers
without the overriding effect of high estrogen and
Dr. Charlene DeHaven M.D.
ESTIMATING SEVERITY OF DISEASE
lesions (pustules and papules). Inflammatory lesions can
relatively higher androgen levels compared to
the pore and a tiny, microscopic opening to the skin
progesterone levels, DHEA from the adrenals again
Clinical Director, INNOVATIVE SKINCARE®
Unfortunately, the severity of acne is often overlooked
leave permanent scars. A mixture of both inflammatory
estrogen levels (during the premenstrual period,
surface, which is the pore of the pilosebaceous unit.
becomes important. The DHEA, which is androgenic
or minimized by physicians. Conversely, severity is often
and non-inflammatory acne exhibits all types of lesions
during female menopause).
because of its conversion to testosterone, causes the
overestimated by patients, especially adolescents, due
including severe inflammatory lesions (markedly
In the closed microcomedone or comedone, the
increase in acne seen with female menopause.
About 17 million Americans have acne. It is the most
to the severe social stigma that can develop as the
reddened pustules) and possibly cystic lesions (lesions
• Increased sebum production and desquamation
epithelial duct wall ruptures and the acne lesion
common skin disease treated by physicians. Acne can
result of even a few mild or moderate lesions. Since
more than 0.5 cm in diameter with a soft top that are
(flaking) of epithelial-lining cells contribute to
progresses from comedone to pustule or papule. The
OTHER CAUSES OF ACNE
appear at any age, although there are peaks of
acne most commonly involves the face, lesions are
losing their inflammation). It is most common to have a
obstruction of the pore and lead to formation of
term "cyst" is a misnomer and refers to what actually
incidence in adolescence and again for females near
readily obvious in social settings. Individuals with deep
mixture of lesions at any one time. Treatment is
the microcomedone. The microcomedone is very
is a large, inflamed, pus-filled nodule greater than 0.5
For adult females taking oral contraceptives (birth
the time of menopause. Acne and adolescence are so
inflammatory nodules and cysts may be scarred for life
chosen based on severity of disease, so this
small and cannot be seen. Alterations in sebum
cm in diameter in which the cell wall is composed of
control pills) can cause acne. The choice of which type
closely associated that 80–90% of all teenagers have at
in more than one way. Studies have shown that
estimation is important.
lipids interfere with normal sebocyte
inflammatory cells and scar tissue.
of birth control medicine to take is most important in
least some lesions at any given time.
persons who have moderate to severe acne in youth
differentiation, thus affecting sebum production.
determining its effect on acne. Most oral
frequently fail to realize their full potential in
ACNE CAUSATION AND PROGRESSION
Ratios of saturated to unsaturated fatty acids
A substantial number of severely inflamed pustules or
contraceptives contain both estrogens and progestins
In adolescence, acne affects both males and females.
finding jobs or choosing careers suitable to their
change. Squalene is one of the most common
papules leading to "cyst" development can be termed
The Pilosebaceous Unit
(synthetic progesterone). Those containing progestins
Boys tend to have more lesions and more severe
actual abilities.
lipids produced by the skin. During an
nodular cystic acne. The body will repair severe
that are more androgenic can contribute to acne. Pills
disease than do girls. This is probably due to the causal
The basic skin structure most commonly affected by
inflammatory process, such as acne, squalene can
inflammation with scarring. Scars are permanent, can
containing relatively more estrogen and a progestin
association with androgen (testosterone) levels. In
The most common measurement tool for acne is a
acne is the pilosebaceous unit, comprising the
be oxidized by free radicals and form squalene
be deep or superficial, and will persist throughout life.
that is less androgenic do not contribute to acne
adulthood, acne is more common in women,
grading system which classifies according to the
sebaceous gland, vellus hair, and pore (duct).
peroxide, which is particularly pro-inflammatory.
development and are sometimes used to treat acne.
particularly the week or 2 before menses and at the
severity of lesions in grades 1 through 4, as follows:
Hormonal influences are very important in acne
The "progesterone only" method of birth control,
onset of menopause. In menstruating females, the
The function of the sebaceous gland is to produce
• The bacterial organism involved in the
development and progression. Acne actually begins to
either by pill or by injection, can contribute to acne
occurrence of lesions prior to menses is related to the
Grade 1: mild acne, comedones present, minimal to no
sebum, an oily or lipid-based substance. It was once
pathogenesis (cause) of acne is P. acnes
develop at age 8 or 9, when adrenarche occurs.
progression via androgenic effects.
increase in progesterone levels after ovulation and just
thought that sebum had no particular function;
(Propionibacterium acnes). P. acnes is a normal
Adrenarche is the activation of the adrenal gland,
before menses. Progesterone has androgenic effects
Grade 2: moderate acne, some inflammation present,
however, recent research has shown that sebum
inhabitant of skin. However, the increased amount
occurring before puberty and associated with increased
Other Medications
and therefore causes these increases in acne lesions.
some papules and pustules present;
transports the antioxidant vitamin E to the skin's
of sebum and obstruction of the pore provide an
DHEA levels. DHEA is one of the hormones produced by
The occurrence in menopausal females is also related
Grade 3: moderately severe acne, larger nodules and
surface. The pore is the opening that carries sebum to
environment conducive to proliferation of P. acnes.
the adrenal gland. Some of the DHEA is converted to
Other medicines that can be related to the
to relative androgen predominance in the face of
pustules with inflammation;
the epidermal surface and is lined with epidermal cells.
As P. acnes increases in number, it uses sebum as a
androgens by a metabolic pathway, leading to
development of acne include lithium, cortisone-type
declining estrogen levels seen with menopause.
Grade 4: severe acne, large nodules and cysts, scarring.
nutritive source, causing sebum conversion to free
microcomedone development. With puberty in the
medicines, and anabolic (testosterone-type or
Neonates (just-born babies) can present with acne
The number of pilosebaceous units that appear on the
fatty acids, which are very irritating. The immune
female, DHEA is the primary source of androgens, since
androgenic) steroids. Some medicines used to treat
because of the intra-uterine hormonal stimulation from
This system considers the progression of severity from
face, upper neck, and chest is 9 times the number
system is activated by both the free fatty acids and
some of it is converted to androgens. With female
cancer, such as epidermal growth factor receptor
maternal hormones.
slightly visible comedones to inflammatory lesions to
found elsewhere on the body. The pilosebaceous unit is
the large amounts of P. acnes, and inflammation
puberty, both estrogen and progesterone increase as
inhibitors, can cause an acneiform (acne-like) rash.
multiple severe pustular and cystic lesions.
under stimulation at birth from maternal hormones,
thus ensues.
menarche (the beginning of menses) occurs and the
Although the rash looks like typical acne, closer
People with acne, especially teenagers, tend to
atrophies (becomes smaller and less active) during
ovaries begin to produce female hormones. Some of
inspection reveals the signature lesion of acne, the
self-medicate. Each year in the United States, more
Another system for grading acne divides the face into
childhood, and then re-emerges during adolescence,
• Abnormal keratinization causes overcornification
this ovarian estrogen is converted to androgens as
comedone, is absent.
than $100 million is spent on over-the-counter
regions and then counts the number of lesions. The
again due to hormonal stimulation. Hormonal
of skin, further contributing to pore obstruction
a byproduct.
products to treat acne.
lesion count can further be divided by type into
stimulation can occur also during menopause.
and inflammation.
Endocrine Disorders
comedones, inflammatory lesions, and nodular and
Progesterone itself has androgenic effects. The
Another rare but possible cause of acne is endocrine
People with acne, especially teenagers, tend to
cystic lesions. This is quite time-consuming and
increased severity of acne in male adolescents is due to
disorders of various types, which lead to overproduction
self-medicate. Each year in the US over $100 million is
probably more useful in research studies than in a
Microcomedones increase in size to form comedones.
their higher androgen secretion compared to females.
The primary cause of acne is obstruction of the
of androgenic substances.
spent on over-the-counter products to treat acne.
clinical setting.
The comedone, which may be open or closed, is the
As puberty passes, hormonal levels decrease and acne
pilosebaceous unit. Hormones, sebum, abnormal
essential focus lesion in acne. Open comedones
resolves. However, in adult women progesterone
keratinization, and bacteria contribute to the
Environmental Factors
(blackheads), have an enlarged pore due to the
increases in the 2 weeks before menses, causing effects
obstruction of the pilosebaceous unit in the
that are more androgenic and leading to the spike in
Environmental factors occasionally play a role in acne.
All materials contained on this document are protected by United States copyright law. You may not modify, remove, delete, publish, transmit, reproduce or in any way exploit the content of this document, in whole or in part.
2014 Science of Skincare, LLC. All rights reserved.
Young people employed in places where they come
pilosebaceous unit if pomade comes into contact
a variety of effects that include antibacterial activity,
with steroids to control inflammation, while severe
iS products helpful in treating acne include: EXTREME
into contact with grease, such as auto repair shops or
with the skin, leading to acne development. This
mild anti-inflammatory activity, lipid-dissolving
nodular cystic acne usually requires Accutane
PROTECT SPF 30, ECLIPSE SPF 50+,
fast-food restaurants, may experience a worsening
can be prevented by being careful to avoid facial
cleansing action to remove lipid plugs from pores, and
(isotretinoin, or 13-cis-retinoic acid). Accutane is a pill
EXFOLIATING ENZYME TREATMENT.
skin when placing these products on the hair.
desquamative activity to remove dead epithelial cells on
with significant potential side effects, usually reserved
the skin and pore surfaces, and encourage epithelial
for the most severe acne cases. It causes drying of the
• Cosmetics, including makeup and moisturizers,
skin, eyes, mouth, and mucus membranes in all people,
At the present time, we are unsure if stress can
that contain large amounts of oil can worsen acne.
as well as desquamation of skin. Because Accutane is
O'Daniel TG, "Multimodal Management of Atrophic Acne Scarring
in the Aging Face," Aesthetic Plast Surg. 2011
exacerbate acne or if the acne itself causes the
Two or more agents may be required for
teratogenic (tumor-causing) and will cause
increased stress. An increase in lesion number has been
• Acne is related to hormonal factors, as explained
non-inflammatory acne that is not responsive to a
malformations in 60% of exposed fetuses, doctors will
Kraft J et al, "Management of Acne," CMAJ. 2011
noted and may relate to relative increases in cortisol,
above. Young women may experience flare-ups
single agent, or for inflammatory acne. If two or more
never place a female patient on Accutane unless there
which is androgenic, with stress.
just prior to menses. Because of the hormonal
different agents are chosen, they should have different
is reliable protection against pregnancy. Accutane also
influences occurring during adolescence, it is an
mechanisms of action, so as to potentiate each other.
requires blood-test monitoring.
Webster GF, "Acne Vulgaris," BMJ. 2002Aug31;325:475-79.
PATIENT EDUCATION FACTS AND MYTHS
acne-prone period for both young men and
Bershad SV, "The Modern Age of Acne Therapy: A Review of
Current Treatment Options," Mt Sinai J Med,
There are many public misconceptions about acne.
women. The perimenopausal period is another
Common topical therapies include benzoyl peroxide,
Hormonal therapy with non-androgenic oral
Some important facts for general patient education are
acne-prone time for women.
topical antibiotics (clindamycin topical or erythromycin
contraceptives may be used to combat severe
Toyoda M et al, "Pathogenesis of Acne," Med Electron Microsc,
topical), topical retinoids (tretinoin, adapalene, or
inflammatory acne. If not effective, treatment with
• The treatment of acne requires some time. It will
tazarotene), azelaic acid, salicylic acid, milk and fruit
spironolactone, an anti-androgen, may be tried.
Webster GF, "Acne and Rosacea," Med Clin North Am,
• Acne is not caused by dirty skin. Washing the skin
not go away overnight but requires persistence
acids (also called alpha hydroxy acids, or AHAs, which
more, or more vigorously, is not warranted and will
and consistent, effective treatment. Usually, weeks
include glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, citric
Krowchuk DP, "Managing Acne in Adolescents," Ped Clin North Am,
not be helpful, and injury induced by vigorous
are required with any treatment before
acid, and mixed fruit acids), and products
Scars are often thought to be permanent, persist into
washing may cause more inflammation and induce
improvement is seen. When treatment is stopped
adulthood, and be treatable only with a procedure.
Krowchuk DP, "Treating Acne. A Practical Guide," Med Clin North
progression of lesions. The visible black part of the
prematurely, the acne returns.
However, superficial scarring can be improved with
blackhead is not dirt—it is melanin and oxidized
Sometimes the extraction (removal) of comedones with
topical products that have resurfacing activity.
Russell JJ, "Topical Therapy for Acne," Am Fam Phys,
material, and cannot be removed by washing.
• Deep scars are permanent. The object of
a small instrument, called a comedone extractor, may
continuing treatment and being consistent with
be done in the doctor's office. Some medical literature
Strasburger VC; "Acne. What every Pediatrician Should Know about
Each of these therapies, whether topical or systemic, has
Treatment," Ped Clin North Am, 1997Dec;44(6):1505-24.
• Dietary factors sometimes may relate to acne. The
treatment is to avoid progression to severe lesions
terms this surgery, although it is not surgery in the
a list of advantages, disadvantages, potential toxicities,
Western diet, which encourages insulin resistance
and scarring. Scar treatment has become
traditional sense and cannot be used to treat scarring.
Kligman AM; "The Treatment of Acne with Topical Retinoids: One
and contraindications depending upon its own unique
Man's Opinion," J Am Acad Dermatol,
and tends toward obesity, is high in sugars and
multimodal and now includes chemical peels,
Removal of comedone contents with a comedone
properties. Most of them may be used in combination,
simple carbohydrates. This type of diet predisposes
dermabrasion, ablative and non-ablative laser
extractor in the doctor's office is acceptable and
although Accutane is used alone as monotherapy. The
to acne development and worsens existing acne.
resurfacing, dermal fillers, and excision. These
helpful. It differs greatly from "picking at" lesions at
topical agents may be used singly for comedonal
Insulin resistance stimulates androgen receptors
techniques also may be combined with treatment
home, which causes more inflammation and is harmful.
non-inflammatory acne, but if this type of acne is highly
which then become more sensitive to androgens,
of the aging face.
inflammatory or non-responsive to therapy with a single
thus contributing to acne development.
Severe Inflammatory Acne
topical agent, then therapy with more than one agent is
Topical treatment alone will not be effective in treating
usually required.
• Therapy succeeds by preventing the formation of
Treatments for acne include counteracting androgens,
severe inflammatory acne, because it cannot penetrate
new acne lesions. Therefore, it is important to
decreasing inflammation, decreasing sebum
deeply enough through the skin's surface to treat the
PRODUCT RECOMMENDATIONS
treat all acne-prone skin, and not just single acne
production, preventing follicular plugging, and
most severely inflamed nodules and cysts. Severe acne
iS CLINICAL® products helpful in treating acne include:
lesions, with topical agents.
reducing P. acnes proliferation.
requires systemic treatment (medicine taken orally).
ACTIVE SERUM™, PRO-HEAL® SERUM ADVANCE ®,
Systemic therapies cause distribution of the drug
HYDRA-COOL® SERUM, CLEANSING COMPLEX,
• Any practice that further traumatizes (injures) acne
Non-inflammatory Acne
throughout the entire body. Common systemic
WHITE LIGHTENING™ SERUM,
lesions contributes to more inflammation and
Non-inflammatory acne and comedones may be treated
therapies include oral antibiotics (erythromycin and the
WHITE LIGHTENING™ COMPLEX.
progression of disease. This includes picking at
with a single agent applied topically. Topical therapy
tetracyclines, including tetracycline, minocycline, and
lesions and wearing athletic gear over lesions.
refers to putting a treatment on top of the skin. There
doxycycline) and hormonal therapy (oral
• Use of pomade on hair may plug the
are a variety of single agents available, which may have
contraceptives). Cystic lesions also may be injected
Mild or comedonal acne consists of comedones
material within, are open to the surface, and have a
acne lesions during this time. With female menopause,
(blackheads and whiteheads) only and is
• Higher androgen levels cause the overproduction of
black color due to melanin pigment in the cells that
estrogen and progesterone levels decrease as the
non-inflammatory. Inflammatory acne consists of both
sebum, which can occur during direct elevation of
were shed and decomposed. Closed comedones
ovaries fail (stop hormone production). At this point,
comedones and a substantial number of inflammatory
androgens (during both male and female puberty) or
(whiteheads) have a layer of epithelial cells that covers
without the overriding effect of high estrogen and
Dr. Charlene DeHaven M.D.
ESTIMATING SEVERITY OF DISEASE
lesions (pustules and papules). Inflammatory lesions can
relatively higher androgen levels compared to
the pore and a tiny, microscopic opening to the skin
progesterone levels, DHEA from the adrenals again
Clinical Director, INNOVATIVE SKINCARE®
Unfortunately, the severity of acne is often overlooked
leave permanent scars. A mixture of both inflammatory
estrogen levels (during the premenstrual period,
surface, which is the pore of the pilosebaceous unit.
becomes important. The DHEA, which is androgenic
or minimized by physicians. Conversely, severity is often
and non-inflammatory acne exhibits all types of lesions
during female menopause).
because of its conversion to testosterone, causes the
overestimated by patients, especially adolescents, due
including severe inflammatory lesions (markedly
In the closed microcomedone or comedone, the
increase in acne seen with female menopause.
About 17 million Americans have acne. It is the most
to the severe social stigma that can develop as the
reddened pustules) and possibly cystic lesions (lesions
• Increased sebum production and desquamation
epithelial duct wall ruptures and the acne lesion
common skin disease treated by physicians. Acne can
result of even a few mild or moderate lesions. Since
more than 0.5 cm in diameter with a soft top that are
(flaking) of epithelial-lining cells contribute to
progresses from comedone to pustule or papule. The
OTHER CAUSES OF ACNE
appear at any age, although there are peaks of
acne most commonly involves the face, lesions are
losing their inflammation). It is most common to have a
obstruction of the pore and lead to formation of
term "cyst" is a misnomer and refers to what actually
incidence in adolescence and again for females near
readily obvious in social settings. Individuals with deep
mixture of lesions at any one time. Treatment is
the microcomedone. The microcomedone is very
is a large, inflamed, pus-filled nodule greater than 0.5
For adult females taking oral contraceptives (birth
the time of menopause. Acne and adolescence are so
inflammatory nodules and cysts may be scarred for life
chosen based on severity of disease, so this
small and cannot be seen. Alterations in sebum
cm in diameter in which the cell wall is composed of
control pills) can cause acne. The choice of which type
closely associated that 80–90% of all teenagers have at
in more than one way. Studies have shown that
estimation is important.
lipids interfere with normal sebocyte
inflammatory cells and scar tissue.
of birth control medicine to take is most important in
least some lesions at any given time.
persons who have moderate to severe acne in youth
differentiation, thus affecting sebum production.
determining its effect on acne. Most oral
frequently fail to realize their full potential in
ACNE CAUSATION AND PROGRESSION
Ratios of saturated to unsaturated fatty acids
A substantial number of severely inflamed pustules or
contraceptives contain both estrogens and progestins
In adolescence, acne affects both males and females.
finding jobs or choosing careers suitable to their
change. Squalene is one of the most common
papules leading to "cyst" development can be termed
The Pilosebaceous Unit
(synthetic progesterone). Those containing progestins
Boys tend to have more lesions and more severe
actual abilities.
lipids produced by the skin. During an
nodular cystic acne. The body will repair severe
that are more androgenic can contribute to acne. Pills
disease than do girls. This is probably due to the causal
The basic skin structure most commonly affected by
inflammatory process, such as acne, squalene can
inflammation with scarring. Scars are permanent, can
containing relatively more estrogen and a progestin
association with androgen (testosterone) levels. In
The most common measurement tool for acne is a
acne is the pilosebaceous unit, comprising the
be oxidized by free radicals and form squalene
be deep or superficial, and will persist throughout life.
that is less androgenic do not contribute to acne
adulthood, acne is more common in women,
grading system which classifies according to the
sebaceous gland, vellus hair, and pore (duct).
peroxide, which is particularly pro-inflammatory.
development and are sometimes used to treat acne.
particularly the week or 2 before menses and at the
severity of lesions in grades 1 through 4, as follows:
Hormonal influences are very important in acne
The "progesterone only" method of birth control,
onset of menopause. In menstruating females, the
The function of the sebaceous gland is to produce
• The bacterial organism involved in the
development and progression. Acne actually begins to
either by pill or by injection, can contribute to acne
occurrence of lesions prior to menses is related to the
Grade 1: mild acne, comedones present, minimal to no
sebum, an oily or lipid-based substance. It was once
pathogenesis (cause) of acne is P. acnes
develop at age 8 or 9, when adrenarche occurs.
progression via androgenic effects.
increase in progesterone levels after ovulation and just
thought that sebum had no particular function;
(Propionibacterium acnes). P. acnes is a normal
Adrenarche is the activation of the adrenal gland,
before menses. Progesterone has androgenic effects
Grade 2: moderate acne, some inflammation present,
however, recent research has shown that sebum
inhabitant of skin. However, the increased amount
occurring before puberty and associated with increased
Other Medications
and therefore causes these increases in acne lesions.
some papules and pustules present;
transports the antioxidant vitamin E to the skin's
of sebum and obstruction of the pore provide an
DHEA levels. DHEA is one of the hormones produced by
The occurrence in menopausal females is also related
Grade 3: moderately severe acne, larger nodules and
surface. The pore is the opening that carries sebum to
environment conducive to proliferation of P. acnes.
the adrenal gland. Some of the DHEA is converted to
Other medicines that can be related to the
to relative androgen predominance in the face of
pustules with inflammation;
the epidermal surface and is lined with epidermal cells.
As P. acnes increases in number, it uses sebum as a
androgens by a metabolic pathway, leading to
development of acne include lithium, cortisone-type
declining estrogen levels seen with menopause.
Grade 4: severe acne, large nodules and cysts, scarring.
nutritive source, causing sebum conversion to free
microcomedone development. With puberty in the
medicines, and anabolic (testosterone-type or
Neonates (just-born babies) can present with acne
The number of pilosebaceous units that appear on the
fatty acids, which are very irritating. The immune
female, DHEA is the primary source of androgens, since
androgenic) steroids. Some medicines used to treat
because of the intra-uterine hormonal stimulation from
This system considers the progression of severity from
face, upper neck, and chest is 9 times the number
system is activated by both the free fatty acids and
some of it is converted to androgens. With female
cancer, such as epidermal growth factor receptor
maternal hormones.
slightly visible comedones to inflammatory lesions to
found elsewhere on the body. The pilosebaceous unit is
the large amounts of P. acnes, and inflammation
puberty, both estrogen and progesterone increase as
inhibitors, can cause an acneiform (acne-like) rash.
multiple severe pustular and cystic lesions.
under stimulation at birth from maternal hormones,
thus ensues.
menarche (the beginning of menses) occurs and the
Although the rash looks like typical acne, closer
People with acne, especially teenagers, tend to
atrophies (becomes smaller and less active) during
ovaries begin to produce female hormones. Some of
inspection reveals the signature lesion of acne, the
self-medicate. Each year in the United States, more
Another system for grading acne divides the face into
childhood, and then re-emerges during adolescence,
• Abnormal keratinization causes overcornification
this ovarian estrogen is converted to androgens as
comedone, is absent.
than $100 million is spent on over-the-counter
regions and then counts the number of lesions. The
again due to hormonal stimulation. Hormonal
of skin, further contributing to pore obstruction
a byproduct.
products to treat acne.
lesion count can further be divided by type into
stimulation can occur also during menopause.
and inflammation.
Endocrine Disorders
comedones, inflammatory lesions, and nodular and
Progesterone itself has androgenic effects. The
Another rare but possible cause of acne is endocrine
People with acne, especially teenagers, tend to
cystic lesions. This is quite time-consuming and
increased severity of acne in male adolescents is due to
disorders of various types, which lead to overproduction
self-medicate. Each year in the US over $100 million is
probably more useful in research studies than in a
Microcomedones increase in size to form comedones.
their higher androgen secretion compared to females.
The primary cause of acne is obstruction of the
of androgenic substances.
spent on over-the-counter products to treat acne.
clinical setting.
The comedone, which may be open or closed, is the
As puberty passes, hormonal levels decrease and acne
pilosebaceous unit. Hormones, sebum, abnormal
essential focus lesion in acne. Open comedones
resolves. However, in adult women progesterone
keratinization, and bacteria contribute to the
Environmental Factors
(blackheads), have an enlarged pore due to the
increases in the 2 weeks before menses, causing effects
obstruction of the pilosebaceous unit in the
that are more androgenic and leading to the spike in
Environmental factors occasionally play a role in acne.
All materials contained on this document are protected by United States copyright law. You may not modify, remove, delete, publish, transmit, reproduce or in any way exploit the content of this document, in whole or in part.
2014 Science of Skincare, LLC. All rights reserved.
Young people employed in places where they come
pilosebaceous unit if pomade comes into contact
a variety of effects that include antibacterial activity,
with steroids to control inflammation, while severe
iS products helpful in treating acne include: EXTREME
into contact with grease, such as auto repair shops or
with the skin, leading to acne development. This
mild anti-inflammatory activity, lipid-dissolving
nodular cystic acne usually requires Accutane
PROTECT SPF 30, ECLIPSE SPF 50+,
fast-food restaurants, may experience a worsening
can be prevented by being careful to avoid facial
cleansing action to remove lipid plugs from pores, and
(isotretinoin, or 13-cis-retinoic acid). Accutane is a pill
EXFOLIATING ENZYME TREATMENT.
skin when placing these products on the hair.
desquamative activity to remove dead epithelial cells on
with significant potential side effects, usually reserved
the skin and pore surfaces, and encourage epithelial
for the most severe acne cases. It causes drying of the
• Cosmetics, including makeup and moisturizers,
skin, eyes, mouth, and mucus membranes in all people,
At the present time, we are unsure if stress can
that contain large amounts of oil can worsen acne.
as well as desquamation of skin. Because Accutane is
O'Daniel TG, "Multimodal Management of Atrophic Acne Scarring
in the Aging Face," Aesthetic Plast Surg. 2011
exacerbate acne or if the acne itself causes the
Two or more agents may be required for
teratogenic (tumor-causing) and will cause
increased stress. An increase in lesion number has been
• Acne is related to hormonal factors, as explained
non-inflammatory acne that is not responsive to a
malformations in 60% of exposed fetuses, doctors will
Kraft J et al, "Management of Acne," CMAJ. 2011
noted and may relate to relative increases in cortisol,
above. Young women may experience flare-ups
single agent, or for inflammatory acne. If two or more
never place a female patient on Accutane unless there
which is androgenic, with stress.
just prior to menses. Because of the hormonal
different agents are chosen, they should have different
is reliable protection against pregnancy. Accutane also
influences occurring during adolescence, it is an
mechanisms of action, so as to potentiate each other.
requires blood-test monitoring.
Webster GF, "Acne Vulgaris," BMJ. 2002Aug31;325:475-79.
PATIENT EDUCATION FACTS AND MYTHS
acne-prone period for both young men and
Bershad SV, "The Modern Age of Acne Therapy: A Review of
Current Treatment Options," Mt Sinai J Med,
There are many public misconceptions about acne.
women. The perimenopausal period is another
Common topical therapies include benzoyl peroxide,
Hormonal therapy with non-androgenic oral
Some important facts for general patient education are
acne-prone time for women.
topical antibiotics (clindamycin topical or erythromycin
contraceptives may be used to combat severe
Toyoda M et al, "Pathogenesis of Acne," Med Electron Microsc,
topical), topical retinoids (tretinoin, adapalene, or
inflammatory acne. If not effective, treatment with
• The treatment of acne requires some time. It will
tazarotene), azelaic acid, salicylic acid, milk and fruit
spironolactone, an anti-androgen, may be tried.
Webster GF, "Acne and Rosacea," Med Clin North Am,
• Acne is not caused by dirty skin. Washing the skin
not go away overnight but requires persistence
acids (also called alpha hydroxy acids, or AHAs, which
more, or more vigorously, is not warranted and will
and consistent, effective treatment. Usually, weeks
include glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, citric
Krowchuk DP, "Managing Acne in Adolescents," Ped Clin North Am,
not be helpful, and injury induced by vigorous
are required with any treatment before
acid, and mixed fruit acids), and products
Scars are often thought to be permanent, persist into
washing may cause more inflammation and induce
improvement is seen. When treatment is stopped
adulthood, and be treatable only with a procedure.
Krowchuk DP, "Treating Acne. A Practical Guide," Med Clin North
progression of lesions. The visible black part of the
prematurely, the acne returns.
However, superficial scarring can be improved with
blackhead is not dirt—it is melanin and oxidized
Sometimes the extraction (removal) of comedones with
topical products that have resurfacing activity.
Russell JJ, "Topical Therapy for Acne," Am Fam Phys,
material, and cannot be removed by washing.
• Deep scars are permanent. The object of
a small instrument, called a comedone extractor, may
continuing treatment and being consistent with
be done in the doctor's office. Some medical literature
Strasburger VC; "Acne. What every Pediatrician Should Know about
Each of these therapies, whether topical or systemic, has
Treatment," Ped Clin North Am, 1997Dec;44(6):1505-24.
• Dietary factors sometimes may relate to acne. The
treatment is to avoid progression to severe lesions
terms this surgery, although it is not surgery in the
a list of advantages, disadvantages, potential toxicities,
Western diet, which encourages insulin resistance
and scarring. Scar treatment has become
traditional sense and cannot be used to treat scarring.
Kligman AM; "The Treatment of Acne with Topical Retinoids: One
and contraindications depending upon its own unique
Man's Opinion," J Am Acad Dermatol,
and tends toward obesity, is high in sugars and
multimodal and now includes chemical peels,
Removal of comedone contents with a comedone
properties. Most of them may be used in combination,
simple carbohydrates. This type of diet predisposes
dermabrasion, ablative and non-ablative laser
extractor in the doctor's office is acceptable and
although Accutane is used alone as monotherapy. The
to acne development and worsens existing acne.
resurfacing, dermal fillers, and excision. These
helpful. It differs greatly from "picking at" lesions at
topical agents may be used singly for comedonal
Insulin resistance stimulates androgen receptors
techniques also may be combined with treatment
home, which causes more inflammation and is harmful.
non-inflammatory acne, but if this type of acne is highly
which then become more sensitive to androgens,
of the aging face.
inflammatory or non-responsive to therapy with a single
thus contributing to acne development.
Severe Inflammatory Acne
topical agent, then therapy with more than one agent is
Topical treatment alone will not be effective in treating
usually required.
• Therapy succeeds by preventing the formation of
Treatments for acne include counteracting androgens,
severe inflammatory acne, because it cannot penetrate
new acne lesions. Therefore, it is important to
decreasing inflammation, decreasing sebum
deeply enough through the skin's surface to treat the
PRODUCT RECOMMENDATIONS
treat all acne-prone skin, and not just single acne
production, preventing follicular plugging, and
most severely inflamed nodules and cysts. Severe acne
iS CLINICAL® products helpful in treating acne include:
lesions, with topical agents.
reducing P. acnes proliferation.
requires systemic treatment (medicine taken orally).
ACTIVE SERUM™, PRO-HEAL® SERUM ADVANCE ®,
Systemic therapies cause distribution of the drug
HYDRA-COOL® SERUM, CLEANSING COMPLEX,
• Any practice that further traumatizes (injures) acne
Non-inflammatory Acne
throughout the entire body. Common systemic
WHITE LIGHTENING™ SERUM,
lesions contributes to more inflammation and
Non-inflammatory acne and comedones may be treated
therapies include oral antibiotics (erythromycin and the
WHITE LIGHTENING™ COMPLEX.
progression of disease. This includes picking at
with a single agent applied topically. Topical therapy
tetracyclines, including tetracycline, minocycline, and
lesions and wearing athletic gear over lesions.
refers to putting a treatment on top of the skin. There
doxycycline) and hormonal therapy (oral
• Use of pomade on hair may plug the
are a variety of single agents available, which may have
contraceptives). Cystic lesions also may be injected
Mild or comedonal acne consists of comedones
material within, are open to the surface, and have a
acne lesions during this time. With female menopause,
(blackheads and whiteheads) only and is
• Higher androgen levels cause the overproduction of
black color due to melanin pigment in the cells that
estrogen and progesterone levels decrease as the
non-inflammatory. Inflammatory acne consists of both
sebum, which can occur during direct elevation of
were shed and decomposed. Closed comedones
ovaries fail (stop hormone production). At this point,
comedones and a substantial number of inflammatory
androgens (during both male and female puberty) or
(whiteheads) have a layer of epithelial cells that covers
without the overriding effect of high estrogen and
Dr. Charlene DeHaven M.D.
ESTIMATING SEVERITY OF DISEASE
lesions (pustules and papules). Inflammatory lesions can
relatively higher androgen levels compared to
the pore and a tiny, microscopic opening to the skin
progesterone levels, DHEA from the adrenals again
Clinical Director, INNOVATIVE SKINCARE®
Unfortunately, the severity of acne is often overlooked
leave permanent scars. A mixture of both inflammatory
estrogen levels (during the premenstrual period,
surface, which is the pore of the pilosebaceous unit.
becomes important. The DHEA, which is androgenic
or minimized by physicians. Conversely, severity is often
and non-inflammatory acne exhibits all types of lesions
during female menopause).
because of its conversion to testosterone, causes the
overestimated by patients, especially adolescents, due
including severe inflammatory lesions (markedly
In the closed microcomedone or comedone, the
increase in acne seen with female menopause.
About 17 million Americans have acne. It is the most
to the severe social stigma that can develop as the
reddened pustules) and possibly cystic lesions (lesions
• Increased sebum production and desquamation
epithelial duct wall ruptures and the acne lesion
common skin disease treated by physicians. Acne can
result of even a few mild or moderate lesions. Since
more than 0.5 cm in diameter with a soft top that are
(flaking) of epithelial-lining cells contribute to
progresses from comedone to pustule or papule. The
OTHER CAUSES OF ACNE
appear at any age, although there are peaks of
acne most commonly involves the face, lesions are
losing their inflammation). It is most common to have a
obstruction of the pore and lead to formation of
term "cyst" is a misnomer and refers to what actually
incidence in adolescence and again for females near
readily obvious in social settings. Individuals with deep
mixture of lesions at any one time. Treatment is
the microcomedone. The microcomedone is very
is a large, inflamed, pus-filled nodule greater than 0.5
For adult females taking oral contraceptives (birth
the time of menopause. Acne and adolescence are so
inflammatory nodules and cysts may be scarred for life
chosen based on severity of disease, so this
small and cannot be seen. Alterations in sebum
cm in diameter in which the cell wall is composed of
control pills) can cause acne. The choice of which type
closely associated that 80–90% of all teenagers have at
in more than one way. Studies have shown that
estimation is important.
lipids interfere with normal sebocyte
inflammatory cells and scar tissue.
of birth control medicine to take is most important in
least some lesions at any given time.
persons who have moderate to severe acne in youth
differentiation, thus affecting sebum production.
determining its effect on acne. Most oral
frequently fail to realize their full potential in
ACNE CAUSATION AND PROGRESSION
Ratios of saturated to unsaturated fatty acids
A substantial number of severely inflamed pustules or
contraceptives contain both estrogens and progestins
In adolescence, acne affects both males and females.
finding jobs or choosing careers suitable to their
change. Squalene is one of the most common
papules leading to "cyst" development can be termed
The Pilosebaceous Unit
(synthetic progesterone). Those containing progestins
Boys tend to have more lesions and more severe
actual abilities.
lipids produced by the skin. During an
nodular cystic acne. The body will repair severe
that are more androgenic can contribute to acne. Pills
disease than do girls. This is probably due to the causal
The basic skin structure most commonly affected by
inflammatory process, such as acne, squalene can
inflammation with scarring. Scars are permanent, can
containing relatively more estrogen and a progestin
association with androgen (testosterone) levels. In
The most common measurement tool for acne is a
acne is the pilosebaceous unit, comprising the
be oxidized by free radicals and form squalene
be deep or superficial, and will persist throughout life.
that is less androgenic do not contribute to acne
adulthood, acne is more common in women,
grading system which classifies according to the
sebaceous gland, vellus hair, and pore (duct).
peroxide, which is particularly pro-inflammatory.
development and are sometimes used to treat acne.
particularly the week or 2 before menses and at the
severity of lesions in grades 1 through 4, as follows:
Hormonal influences are very important in acne
The "progesterone only" method of birth control,
onset of menopause. In menstruating females, the
The function of the sebaceous gland is to produce
• The bacterial organism involved in the
development and progression. Acne actually begins to
either by pill or by injection, can contribute to acne
occurrence of lesions prior to menses is related to the
Grade 1: mild acne, comedones present, minimal to no
sebum, an oily or lipid-based substance. It was once
pathogenesis (cause) of acne is P. acnes
develop at age 8 or 9, when adrenarche occurs.
progression via androgenic effects.
increase in progesterone levels after ovulation and just
thought that sebum had no particular function;
(Propionibacterium acnes). P. acnes is a normal
Adrenarche is the activation of the adrenal gland,
before menses. Progesterone has androgenic effects
Grade 2: moderate acne, some inflammation present,
however, recent research has shown that sebum
inhabitant of skin. However, the increased amount
occurring before puberty and associated with increased
Other Medications
and therefore causes these increases in acne lesions.
some papules and pustules present;
transports the antioxidant vitamin E to the skin's
of sebum and obstruction of the pore provide an
DHEA levels. DHEA is one of the hormones produced by
The occurrence in menopausal females is also related
Grade 3: moderately severe acne, larger nodules and
surface. The pore is the opening that carries sebum to
environment conducive to proliferation of P. acnes.
the adrenal gland. Some of the DHEA is converted to
Other medicines that can be related to the
to relative androgen predominance in the face of
pustules with inflammation;
the epidermal surface and is lined with epidermal cells.
As P. acnes increases in number, it uses sebum as a
androgens by a metabolic pathway, leading to
development of acne include lithium, cortisone-type
declining estrogen levels seen with menopause.
Grade 4: severe acne, large nodules and cysts, scarring.
nutritive source, causing sebum conversion to free
microcomedone development. With puberty in the
medicines, and anabolic (testosterone-type or
Neonates (just-born babies) can present with acne
The number of pilosebaceous units that appear on the
fatty acids, which are very irritating. The immune
female, DHEA is the primary source of androgens, since
androgenic) steroids. Some medicines used to treat
because of the intra-uterine hormonal stimulation from
This system considers the progression of severity from
face, upper neck, and chest is 9 times the number
system is activated by both the free fatty acids and
some of it is converted to androgens. With female
cancer, such as epidermal growth factor receptor
maternal hormones.
slightly visible comedones to inflammatory lesions to
found elsewhere on the body. The pilosebaceous unit is
the large amounts of P. acnes, and inflammation
puberty, both estrogen and progesterone increase as
inhibitors, can cause an acneiform (acne-like) rash.
multiple severe pustular and cystic lesions.
under stimulation at birth from maternal hormones,
thus ensues.
menarche (the beginning of menses) occurs and the
Although the rash looks like typical acne, closer
People with acne, especially teenagers, tend to
atrophies (becomes smaller and less active) during
ovaries begin to produce female hormones. Some of
inspection reveals the signature lesion of acne, the
self-medicate. Each year in the United States, more
Another system for grading acne divides the face into
childhood, and then re-emerges during adolescence,
• Abnormal keratinization causes overcornification
this ovarian estrogen is converted to androgens as
comedone, is absent.
than $100 million is spent on over-the-counter
regions and then counts the number of lesions. The
again due to hormonal stimulation. Hormonal
of skin, further contributing to pore obstruction
a byproduct.
products to treat acne.
lesion count can further be divided by type into
stimulation can occur also during menopause.
and inflammation.
Endocrine Disorders
comedones, inflammatory lesions, and nodular and
Progesterone itself has androgenic effects. The
Another rare but possible cause of acne is endocrine
People with acne, especially teenagers, tend to
cystic lesions. This is quite time-consuming and
increased severity of acne in male adolescents is due to
disorders of various types, which lead to overproduction
self-medicate. Each year in the US over $100 million is
probably more useful in research studies than in a
Microcomedones increase in size to form comedones.
their higher androgen secretion compared to females.
The primary cause of acne is obstruction of the
of androgenic substances.
spent on over-the-counter products to treat acne.
clinical setting.
The comedone, which may be open or closed, is the
As puberty passes, hormonal levels decrease and acne
pilosebaceous unit. Hormones, sebum, abnormal
essential focus lesion in acne. Open comedones
resolves. However, in adult women progesterone
keratinization, and bacteria contribute to the
Environmental Factors
(blackheads), have an enlarged pore due to the
increases in the 2 weeks before menses, causing effects
obstruction of the pilosebaceous unit in the
that are more androgenic and leading to the spike in
Environmental factors occasionally play a role in acne.
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2014 Science of Skincare, LLC. All rights reserved.
Young people employed in places where they come
pilosebaceous unit if pomade comes into contact
a variety of effects that include antibacterial activity,
with steroids to control inflammation, while severe
iS products helpful in treating acne include: EXTREME
into contact with grease, such as auto repair shops or
with the skin, leading to acne development. This
mild anti-inflammatory activity, lipid-dissolving
nodular cystic acne usually requires Accutane
PROTECT SPF 30, ECLIPSE SPF 50+,
fast-food restaurants, may experience a worsening
can be prevented by being careful to avoid facial
cleansing action to remove lipid plugs from pores, and
(isotretinoin, or 13-cis-retinoic acid). Accutane is a pill
EXFOLIATING ENZYME TREATMENT.
skin when placing these products on the hair.
desquamative activity to remove dead epithelial cells on
with significant potential side effects, usually reserved
the skin and pore surfaces, and encourage epithelial
for the most severe acne cases. It causes drying of the
• Cosmetics, including makeup and moisturizers,
skin, eyes, mouth, and mucus membranes in all people,
At the present time, we are unsure if stress can
that contain large amounts of oil can worsen acne.
as well as desquamation of skin. Because Accutane is
O'Daniel TG, "Multimodal Management of Atrophic Acne Scarring
in the Aging Face," Aesthetic Plast Surg. 2011
exacerbate acne or if the acne itself causes the
Two or more agents may be required for
teratogenic (tumor-causing) and will cause
increased stress. An increase in lesion number has been
• Acne is related to hormonal factors, as explained
non-inflammatory acne that is not responsive to a
malformations in 60% of exposed fetuses, doctors will
Kraft J et al, "Management of Acne," CMAJ. 2011
noted and may relate to relative increases in cortisol,
above. Young women may experience flare-ups
single agent, or for inflammatory acne. If two or more
never place a female patient on Accutane unless there
which is androgenic, with stress.
just prior to menses. Because of the hormonal
different agents are chosen, they should have different
is reliable protection against pregnancy. Accutane also
influences occurring during adolescence, it is an
mechanisms of action, so as to potentiate each other.
requires blood-test monitoring.
Webster GF, "Acne Vulgaris," BMJ. 2002Aug31;325:475-79.
PATIENT EDUCATION FACTS AND MYTHS
acne-prone period for both young men and
Bershad SV, "The Modern Age of Acne Therapy: A Review of
Current Treatment Options," Mt Sinai J Med,
There are many public misconceptions about acne.
women. The perimenopausal period is another
Common topical therapies include benzoyl peroxide,
Hormonal therapy with non-androgenic oral
Some important facts for general patient education are
acne-prone time for women.
topical antibiotics (clindamycin topical or erythromycin
contraceptives may be used to combat severe
Toyoda M et al, "Pathogenesis of Acne," Med Electron Microsc,
topical), topical retinoids (tretinoin, adapalene, or
inflammatory acne. If not effective, treatment with
• The treatment of acne requires some time. It will
tazarotene), azelaic acid, salicylic acid, milk and fruit
spironolactone, an anti-androgen, may be tried.
Webster GF, "Acne and Rosacea," Med Clin North Am,
• Acne is not caused by dirty skin. Washing the skin
not go away overnight but requires persistence
acids (also called alpha hydroxy acids, or AHAs, which
more, or more vigorously, is not warranted and will
and consistent, effective treatment. Usually, weeks
include glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, citric
Krowchuk DP, "Managing Acne in Adolescents," Ped Clin North Am,
not be helpful, and injury induced by vigorous
are required with any treatment before
acid, and mixed fruit acids), and products
Scars are often thought to be permanent, persist into
washing may cause more inflammation and induce
improvement is seen. When treatment is stopped
adulthood, and be treatable only with a procedure.
Krowchuk DP, "Treating Acne. A Practical Guide," Med Clin North
progression of lesions. The visible black part of the
prematurely, the acne returns.
However, superficial scarring can be improved with
blackhead is not dirt—it is melanin and oxidized
Sometimes the extraction (removal) of comedones with
topical products that have resurfacing activity.
Russell JJ, "Topical Therapy for Acne," Am Fam Phys,
material, and cannot be removed by washing.
• Deep scars are permanent. The object of
a small instrument, called a comedone extractor, may
continuing treatment and being consistent with
be done in the doctor's office. Some medical literature
Strasburger VC; "Acne. What every Pediatrician Should Know about
Each of these therapies, whether topical or systemic, has
Treatment," Ped Clin North Am, 1997Dec;44(6):1505-24.
• Dietary factors sometimes may relate to acne. The
treatment is to avoid progression to severe lesions
terms this surgery, although it is not surgery in the
a list of advantages, disadvantages, potential toxicities,
Western diet, which encourages insulin resistance
and scarring. Scar treatment has become
traditional sense and cannot be used to treat scarring.
Kligman AM; "The Treatment of Acne with Topical Retinoids: One
and contraindications depending upon its own unique
Man's Opinion," J Am Acad Dermatol,
and tends toward obesity, is high in sugars and
multimodal and now includes chemical peels,
Removal of comedone contents with a comedone
properties. Most of them may be used in combination,
simple carbohydrates. This type of diet predisposes
dermabrasion, ablative and non-ablative laser
extractor in the doctor's office is acceptable and
although Accutane is used alone as monotherapy. The
to acne development and worsens existing acne.
resurfacing, dermal fillers, and excision. These
helpful. It differs greatly from "picking at" lesions at
topical agents may be used singly for comedonal
Insulin resistance stimulates androgen receptors
techniques also may be combined with treatment
home, which causes more inflammation and is harmful.
non-inflammatory acne, but if this type of acne is highly
which then become more sensitive to androgens,
of the aging face.
inflammatory or non-responsive to therapy with a single
thus contributing to acne development.
Severe Inflammatory Acne
topical agent, then therapy with more than one agent is
Topical treatment alone will not be effective in treating
usually required.
• Therapy succeeds by preventing the formation of
Treatments for acne include counteracting androgens,
severe inflammatory acne, because it cannot penetrate
new acne lesions. Therefore, it is important to
decreasing inflammation, decreasing sebum
deeply enough through the skin's surface to treat the
PRODUCT RECOMMENDATIONS
treat all acne-prone skin, and not just single acne
production, preventing follicular plugging, and
most severely inflamed nodules and cysts. Severe acne
iS CLINICAL® products helpful in treating acne include:
lesions, with topical agents.
reducing P. acnes proliferation.
requires systemic treatment (medicine taken orally).
ACTIVE SERUM™, PRO-HEAL® SERUM ADVANCE ®,
Systemic therapies cause distribution of the drug
HYDRA-COOL® SERUM, CLEANSING COMPLEX,
• Any practice that further traumatizes (injures) acne
Non-inflammatory Acne
throughout the entire body. Common systemic
WHITE LIGHTENING™ SERUM,
lesions contributes to more inflammation and
Non-inflammatory acne and comedones may be treated
therapies include oral antibiotics (erythromycin and the
WHITE LIGHTENING™ COMPLEX.
progression of disease. This includes picking at
with a single agent applied topically. Topical therapy
tetracyclines, including tetracycline, minocycline, and
lesions and wearing athletic gear over lesions.
refers to putting a treatment on top of the skin. There
doxycycline) and hormonal therapy (oral
• Use of pomade on hair may plug the
are a variety of single agents available, which may have
contraceptives). Cystic lesions also may be injected
Mild or comedonal acne consists of comedones
material within, are open to the surface, and have a
acne lesions during this time. With female menopause,
(blackheads and whiteheads) only and is
• Higher androgen levels cause the overproduction of
black color due to melanin pigment in the cells that
estrogen and progesterone levels decrease as the
non-inflammatory. Inflammatory acne consists of both
sebum, which can occur during direct elevation of
were shed and decomposed. Closed comedones
ovaries fail (stop hormone production). At this point,
comedones and a substantial number of inflammatory
androgens (during both male and female puberty) or
(whiteheads) have a layer of epithelial cells that covers
without the overriding effect of high estrogen and
Dr. Charlene DeHaven M.D.
ESTIMATING SEVERITY OF DISEASE
lesions (pustules and papules). Inflammatory lesions can
relatively higher androgen levels compared to
the pore and a tiny, microscopic opening to the skin
progesterone levels, DHEA from the adrenals again
Clinical Director, INNOVATIVE SKINCARE®
Unfortunately, the severity of acne is often overlooked
leave permanent scars. A mixture of both inflammatory
estrogen levels (during the premenstrual period,
surface, which is the pore of the pilosebaceous unit.
becomes important. The DHEA, which is androgenic
or minimized by physicians. Conversely, severity is often
and non-inflammatory acne exhibits all types of lesions
during female menopause).
because of its conversion to testosterone, causes the
overestimated by patients, especially adolescents, due
including severe inflammatory lesions (markedly
In the closed microcomedone or comedone, the
increase in acne seen with female menopause.
About 17 million Americans have acne. It is the most
to the severe social stigma that can develop as the
reddened pustules) and possibly cystic lesions (lesions
• Increased sebum production and desquamation
epithelial duct wall ruptures and the acne lesion
common skin disease treated by physicians. Acne can
result of even a few mild or moderate lesions. Since
more than 0.5 cm in diameter with a soft top that are
(flaking) of epithelial-lining cells contribute to
progresses from comedone to pustule or papule. The
OTHER CAUSES OF ACNE
appear at any age, although there are peaks of
acne most commonly involves the face, lesions are
losing their inflammation). It is most common to have a
obstruction of the pore and lead to formation of
term "cyst" is a misnomer and refers to what actually
incidence in adolescence and again for females near
readily obvious in social settings. Individuals with deep
mixture of lesions at any one time. Treatment is
the microcomedone. The microcomedone is very
is a large, inflamed, pus-filled nodule greater than 0.5
For adult females taking oral contraceptives (birth
the time of menopause. Acne and adolescence are so
inflammatory nodules and cysts may be scarred for life
chosen based on severity of disease, so this
small and cannot be seen. Alterations in sebum
cm in diameter in which the cell wall is composed of
control pills) can cause acne. The choice of which type
closely associated that 80–90% of all teenagers have at
in more than one way. Studies have shown that
estimation is important.
lipids interfere with normal sebocyte
inflammatory cells and scar tissue.
of birth control medicine to take is most important in
least some lesions at any given time.
persons who have moderate to severe acne in youth
differentiation, thus affecting sebum production.
determining its effect on acne. Most oral
frequently fail to realize their full potential in
ACNE CAUSATION AND PROGRESSION
Ratios of saturated to unsaturated fatty acids
A substantial number of severely inflamed pustules or
contraceptives contain both estrogens and progestins
In adolescence, acne affects both males and females.
finding jobs or choosing careers suitable to their
change. Squalene is one of the most common
papules leading to "cyst" development can be termed
The Pilosebaceous Unit
(synthetic progesterone). Those containing progestins
Boys tend to have more lesions and more severe
actual abilities.
lipids produced by the skin. During an
nodular cystic acne. The body will repair severe
that are more androgenic can contribute to acne. Pills
disease than do girls. This is probably due to the causal
The basic skin structure most commonly affected by
inflammatory process, such as acne, squalene can
inflammation with scarring. Scars are permanent, can
containing relatively more estrogen and a progestin
association with androgen (testosterone) levels. In
The most common measurement tool for acne is a
acne is the pilosebaceous unit, comprising the
be oxidized by free radicals and form squalene
be deep or superficial, and will persist throughout life.
that is less androgenic do not contribute to acne
adulthood, acne is more common in women,
grading system which classifies according to the
sebaceous gland, vellus hair, and pore (duct).
peroxide, which is particularly pro-inflammatory.
development and are sometimes used to treat acne.
particularly the week or 2 before menses and at the
severity of lesions in grades 1 through 4, as follows:
Hormonal influences are very important in acne
The "progesterone only" method of birth control,
onset of menopause. In menstruating females, the
The function of the sebaceous gland is to produce
• The bacterial organism involved in the
development and progression. Acne actually begins to
either by pill or by injection, can contribute to acne
occurrence of lesions prior to menses is related to the
Grade 1: mild acne, comedones present, minimal to no
sebum, an oily or lipid-based substance. It was once
pathogenesis (cause) of acne is P. acnes
develop at age 8 or 9, when adrenarche occurs.
progression via androgenic effects.
increase in progesterone levels after ovulation and just
thought that sebum had no particular function;
(Propionibacterium acnes). P. acnes is a normal
Adrenarche is the activation of the adrenal gland,
before menses. Progesterone has androgenic effects
Grade 2: moderate acne, some inflammation present,
however, recent research has shown that sebum
inhabitant of skin. However, the increased amount
occurring before puberty and associated with increased
Other Medications
and therefore causes these increases in acne lesions.
some papules and pustules present;
transports the antioxidant vitamin E to the skin's
of sebum and obstruction of the pore provide an
DHEA levels. DHEA is one of the hormones produced by
The occurrence in menopausal females is also related
Grade 3: moderately severe acne, larger nodules and
surface. The pore is the opening that carries sebum to
environment conducive to proliferation of P. acnes.
the adrenal gland. Some of the DHEA is converted to
Other medicines that can be related to the
to relative androgen predominance in the face of
pustules with inflammation;
the epidermal surface and is lined with epidermal cells.
As P. acnes increases in number, it uses sebum as a
androgens by a metabolic pathway, leading to
development of acne include lithium, cortisone-type
declining estrogen levels seen with menopause.
Grade 4: severe acne, large nodules and cysts, scarring.
nutritive source, causing sebum conversion to free
microcomedone development. With puberty in the
medicines, and anabolic (testosterone-type or
Neonates (just-born babies) can present with acne
The number of pilosebaceous units that appear on the
fatty acids, which are very irritating. The immune
female, DHEA is the primary source of androgens, since
androgenic) steroids. Some medicines used to treat
because of the intra-uterine hormonal stimulation from
This system considers the progression of severity from
face, upper neck, and chest is 9 times the number
system is activated by both the free fatty acids and
some of it is converted to androgens. With female
cancer, such as epidermal growth factor receptor
maternal hormones.
slightly visible comedones to inflammatory lesions to
found elsewhere on the body. The pilosebaceous unit is
the large amounts of P. acnes, and inflammation
puberty, both estrogen and progesterone increase as
inhibitors, can cause an acneiform (acne-like) rash.
multiple severe pustular and cystic lesions.
under stimulation at birth from maternal hormones,
thus ensues.
menarche (the beginning of menses) occurs and the
Although the rash looks like typical acne, closer
People with acne, especially teenagers, tend to
atrophies (becomes smaller and less active) during
ovaries begin to produce female hormones. Some of
inspection reveals the signature lesion of acne, the
self-medicate. Each year in the United States, more
Another system for grading acne divides the face into
childhood, and then re-emerges during adolescence,
• Abnormal keratinization causes overcornification
this ovarian estrogen is converted to androgens as
comedone, is absent.
than $100 million is spent on over-the-counter
regions and then counts the number of lesions. The
again due to hormonal stimulation. Hormonal
of skin, further contributing to pore obstruction
a byproduct.
products to treat acne.
lesion count can further be divided by type into
stimulation can occur also during menopause.
and inflammation.
Endocrine Disorders
comedones, inflammatory lesions, and nodular and
Progesterone itself has androgenic effects. The
Another rare but possible cause of acne is endocrine
People with acne, especially teenagers, tend to
cystic lesions. This is quite time-consuming and
increased severity of acne in male adolescents is due to
disorders of various types, which lead to overproduction
self-medicate. Each year in the US over $100 million is
probably more useful in research studies than in a
Microcomedones increase in size to form comedones.
their higher androgen secretion compared to females.
The primary cause of acne is obstruction of the
of androgenic substances.
spent on over-the-counter products to treat acne.
clinical setting.
The comedone, which may be open or closed, is the
As puberty passes, hormonal levels decrease and acne
pilosebaceous unit. Hormones, sebum, abnormal
essential focus lesion in acne. Open comedones
resolves. However, in adult women progesterone
keratinization, and bacteria contribute to the
Environmental Factors
(blackheads), have an enlarged pore due to the
increases in the 2 weeks before menses, causing effects
obstruction of the pilosebaceous unit in the
that are more androgenic and leading to the spike in
Environmental factors occasionally play a role in acne.
Young people employed in places where they come
pilosebaceous unit if pomade comes into contact
a variety of effects that include antibacterial activity,
with steroids to control inflammation, while severe
iS products helpful in treating acne include: EXTREME
into contact with grease, such as auto repair shops or
with the skin, leading to acne development. This
mild anti-inflammatory activity, lipid-dissolving
nodular cystic acne usually requires Accutane
PROTECT SPF 30, ECLIPSE SPF 50+,
fast-food restaurants, may experience a worsening
can be prevented by being careful to avoid facial
cleansing action to remove lipid plugs from pores, and
(isotretinoin, or 13-cis-retinoic acid). Accutane is a pill
EXFOLIATING ENZYME TREATMENT.
skin when placing these products on the hair.
desquamative activity to remove dead epithelial cells on
with significant potential side effects, usually reserved
the skin and pore surfaces, and encourage epithelial
for the most severe acne cases. It causes drying of the
• Cosmetics, including makeup and moisturizers,
skin, eyes, mouth, and mucus membranes in all people,
At the present time, we are unsure if stress can
that contain large amounts of oil can worsen acne.
as well as desquamation of skin. Because Accutane is
O'Daniel TG, "Multimodal Management of Atrophic Acne Scarring
in the Aging Face," Aesthetic Plast Surg. 2011
exacerbate acne or if the acne itself causes the
Two or more agents may be required for
teratogenic (tumor-causing) and will cause
increased stress. An increase in lesion number has been
• Acne is related to hormonal factors, as explained
non-inflammatory acne that is not responsive to a
malformations in 60% of exposed fetuses, doctors will
Kraft J et al, "Management of Acne," CMAJ. 2011
noted and may relate to relative increases in cortisol,
above. Young women may experience flare-ups
single agent, or for inflammatory acne. If two or more
never place a female patient on Accutane unless there
which is androgenic, with stress.
just prior to menses. Because of the hormonal
different agents are chosen, they should have different
is reliable protection against pregnancy. Accutane also
influences occurring during adolescence, it is an
mechanisms of action, so as to potentiate each other.
requires blood-test monitoring.
Webster GF, "Acne Vulgaris," BMJ. 2002Aug31;325:475-79.
PATIENT EDUCATION FACTS AND MYTHS
acne-prone period for both young men and
Bershad SV, "The Modern Age of Acne Therapy: A Review of
Current Treatment Options," Mt Sinai J Med,
There are many public misconceptions about acne.
women. The perimenopausal period is another
Common topical therapies include benzoyl peroxide,
Hormonal therapy with non-androgenic oral
Some important facts for general patient education are
acne-prone time for women.
topical antibiotics (clindamycin topical or erythromycin
contraceptives may be used to combat severe
Toyoda M et al, "Pathogenesis of Acne," Med Electron Microsc,
topical), topical retinoids (tretinoin, adapalene, or
inflammatory acne. If not effective, treatment with
• The treatment of acne requires some time. It will
tazarotene), azelaic acid, salicylic acid, milk and fruit
spironolactone, an anti-androgen, may be tried.
Webster GF, "Acne and Rosacea," Med Clin North Am,
• Acne is not caused by dirty skin. Washing the skin
not go away overnight but requires persistence
acids (also called alpha hydroxy acids, or AHAs, which
more, or more vigorously, is not warranted and will
and consistent, effective treatment. Usually, weeks
include glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, citric
Krowchuk DP, "Managing Acne in Adolescents," Ped Clin North Am,
not be helpful, and injury induced by vigorous
are required with any treatment before
acid, and mixed fruit acids), and products
Scars are often thought to be permanent, persist into
washing may cause more inflammation and induce
improvement is seen. When treatment is stopped
adulthood, and be treatable only with a procedure.
Krowchuk DP, "Treating Acne. A Practical Guide," Med Clin North
progression of lesions. The visible black part of the
prematurely, the acne returns.
However, superficial scarring can be improved with
blackhead is not dirt—it is melanin and oxidized
Sometimes the extraction (removal) of comedones with
topical products that have resurfacing activity.
Russell JJ, "Topical Therapy for Acne," Am Fam Phys,
material, and cannot be removed by washing.
• Deep scars are permanent. The object of
a small instrument, called a comedone extractor, may
continuing treatment and being consistent with
be done in the doctor's office. Some medical literature
Strasburger VC; "Acne. What every Pediatrician Should Know about
Each of these therapies, whether topical or systemic, has
Treatment," Ped Clin North Am, 1997Dec;44(6):1505-24.
• Dietary factors sometimes may relate to acne. The
treatment is to avoid progression to severe lesions
terms this surgery, although it is not surgery in the
a list of advantages, disadvantages, potential toxicities,
Western diet, which encourages insulin resistance
and scarring. Scar treatment has become
traditional sense and cannot be used to treat scarring.
Kligman AM; "The Treatment of Acne with Topical Retinoids: One
and contraindications depending upon its own unique
Man's Opinion," J Am Acad Dermatol,
and tends toward obesity, is high in sugars and
multimodal and now includes chemical peels,
Removal of comedone contents with a comedone
properties. Most of them may be used in combination,
simple carbohydrates. This type of diet predisposes
dermabrasion, ablative and non-ablative laser
extractor in the doctor's office is acceptable and
although Accutane is used alone as monotherapy. The
to acne development and worsens existing acne.
resurfacing, dermal fillers, and excision. These
helpful. It differs greatly from "picking at" lesions at
topical agents may be used singly for comedonal
Insulin resistance stimulates androgen receptors
techniques also may be combined with treatment
home, which causes more inflammation and is harmful.
non-inflammatory acne, but if this type of acne is highly
which then become more sensitive to androgens,
of the aging face.
inflammatory or non-responsive to therapy with a single
thus contributing to acne development.
Severe Inflammatory Acne
topical agent, then therapy with more than one agent is
Topical treatment alone will not be effective in treating
usually required.
• Therapy succeeds by preventing the formation of
Treatments for acne include counteracting androgens,
severe inflammatory acne, because it cannot penetrate
new acne lesions. Therefore, it is important to
decreasing inflammation, decreasing sebum
deeply enough through the skin's surface to treat the
PRODUCT RECOMMENDATIONS
treat all acne-prone skin, and not just single acne
production, preventing follicular plugging, and
most severely inflamed nodules and cysts. Severe acne
iS CLINICAL® products helpful in treating acne include:
lesions, with topical agents.
reducing P. acnes proliferation.
requires systemic treatment (medicine taken orally).
ACTIVE SERUM™, PRO-HEAL® SERUM ADVANCE ®,
Systemic therapies cause distribution of the drug
HYDRA-COOL® SERUM, CLEANSING COMPLEX,
• Any practice that further traumatizes (injures) acne
Non-inflammatory Acne
throughout the entire body. Common systemic
WHITE LIGHTENING™ SERUM,
lesions contributes to more inflammation and
Non-inflammatory acne and comedones may be treated
therapies include oral antibiotics (erythromycin and the
WHITE LIGHTENING™ COMPLEX.
progression of disease. This includes picking at
with a single agent applied topically. Topical therapy
tetracyclines, including tetracycline, minocycline, and
lesions and wearing athletic gear over lesions.
refers to putting a treatment on top of the skin. There
doxycycline) and hormonal therapy (oral
• Use of pomade on hair may plug the
are a variety of single agents available, which may have
contraceptives). Cystic lesions also may be injected
All materials contained on this document are protected by United States copyright law. You may not modify, remove, delete, publish, transmit, reproduce or in any way exploit the content of this document, in whole or in part.
2014 Science of Skincare, LLC. All rights reserved.
Mild or comedonal acne consists of comedones
material within, are open to the surface, and have a
acne lesions during this time. With female menopause,
(blackheads and whiteheads) only and is
• Higher androgen levels cause the overproduction of
black color due to melanin pigment in the cells that
estrogen and progesterone levels decrease as the
non-inflammatory. Inflammatory acne consists of both
sebum, which can occur during direct elevation of
were shed and decomposed. Closed comedones
ovaries fail (stop hormone production). At this point,
comedones and a substantial number of inflammatory
androgens (during both male and female puberty) or
(whiteheads) have a layer of epithelial cells that covers
without the overriding effect of high estrogen and
Dr. Charlene DeHaven M.D.
ESTIMATING SEVERITY OF DISEASE
lesions (pustules and papules). Inflammatory lesions can
relatively higher androgen levels compared to
the pore and a tiny, microscopic opening to the skin
progesterone levels, DHEA from the adrenals again
Clinical Director, INNOVATIVE SKINCARE®
Unfortunately, the severity of acne is often overlooked
leave permanent scars. A mixture of both inflammatory
estrogen levels (during the premenstrual period,
surface, which is the pore of the pilosebaceous unit.
becomes important. The DHEA, which is androgenic
or minimized by physicians. Conversely, severity is often
and non-inflammatory acne exhibits all types of lesions
during female menopause).
because of its conversion to testosterone, causes the
overestimated by patients, especially adolescents, due
including severe inflammatory lesions (markedly
In the closed microcomedone or comedone, the
increase in acne seen with female menopause.
About 17 million Americans have acne. It is the most
to the severe social stigma that can develop as the
reddened pustules) and possibly cystic lesions (lesions
• Increased sebum production and desquamation
epithelial duct wall ruptures and the acne lesion
common skin disease treated by physicians. Acne can
result of even a few mild or moderate lesions. Since
more than 0.5 cm in diameter with a soft top that are
(flaking) of epithelial-lining cells contribute to
progresses from comedone to pustule or papule. The
OTHER CAUSES OF ACNE
appear at any age, although there are peaks of
acne most commonly involves the face, lesions are
losing their inflammation). It is most common to have a
obstruction of the pore and lead to formation of
term "cyst" is a misnomer and refers to what actually
incidence in adolescence and again for females near
readily obvious in social settings. Individuals with deep
mixture of lesions at any one time. Treatment is
the microcomedone. The microcomedone is very
is a large, inflamed, pus-filled nodule greater than 0.5
For adult females taking oral contraceptives (birth
the time of menopause. Acne and adolescence are so
inflammatory nodules and cysts may be scarred for life
chosen based on severity of disease, so this
small and cannot be seen. Alterations in sebum
cm in diameter in which the cell wall is composed of
control pills) can cause acne. The choice of which type
closely associated that 80–90% of all teenagers have at
in more than one way. Studies have shown that
estimation is important.
lipids interfere with normal sebocyte
inflammatory cells and scar tissue.
of birth control medicine to take is most important in
least some lesions at any given time.
persons who have moderate to severe acne in youth
differentiation, thus affecting sebum production.
determining its effect on acne. Most oral
frequently fail to realize their full potential in
ACNE CAUSATION AND PROGRESSION
Ratios of saturated to unsaturated fatty acids
A substantial number of severely inflamed pustules or
contraceptives contain both estrogens and progestins
In adolescence, acne affects both males and females.
finding jobs or choosing careers suitable to their
change. Squalene is one of the most common
papules leading to "cyst" development can be termed
The Pilosebaceous Unit
(synthetic progesterone). Those containing progestins
Boys tend to have more lesions and more severe
actual abilities.
lipids produced by the skin. During an
nodular cystic acne. The body will repair severe
that are more androgenic can contribute to acne. Pills
disease than do girls. This is probably due to the causal
The basic skin structure most commonly affected by
inflammatory process, such as acne, squalene can
inflammation with scarring. Scars are permanent, can
containing relatively more estrogen and a progestin
association with androgen (testosterone) levels. In
The most common measurement tool for acne is a
acne is the pilosebaceous unit, comprising the
be oxidized by free radicals and form squalene
be deep or superficial, and will persist throughout life.
that is less androgenic do not contribute to acne
adulthood, acne is more common in women,
grading system which classifies according to the
sebaceous gland, vellus hair, and pore (duct).
peroxide, which is particularly pro-inflammatory.
development and are sometimes used to treat acne.
particularly the week or 2 before menses and at the
severity of lesions in grades 1 through 4, as follows:
Hormonal influences are very important in acne
The "progesterone only" method of birth control,
onset of menopause. In menstruating females, the
The function of the sebaceous gland is to produce
• The bacterial organism involved in the
development and progression. Acne actually begins to
either by pill or by injection, can contribute to acne
occurrence of lesions prior to menses is related to the
Grade 1: mild acne, comedones present, minimal to no
sebum, an oily or lipid-based substance. It was once
pathogenesis (cause) of acne is P. acnes
develop at age 8 or 9, when adrenarche occurs.
progression via androgenic effects.
increase in progesterone levels after ovulation and just
thought that sebum had no particular function;
(Propionibacterium acnes). P. acnes is a normal
Adrenarche is the activation of the adrenal gland,
before menses. Progesterone has androgenic effects
Grade 2: moderate acne, some inflammation present,
however, recent research has shown that sebum
inhabitant of skin. However, the increased amount
occurring before puberty and associated with increased
Other Medications
and therefore causes these increases in acne lesions.
some papules and pustules present;
transports the antioxidant vitamin E to the skin's
of sebum and obstruction of the pore provide an
DHEA levels. DHEA is one of the hormones produced by
The occurrence in menopausal females is also related
Grade 3: moderately severe acne, larger nodules and
surface. The pore is the opening that carries sebum to
environment conducive to proliferation of P. acnes.
the adrenal gland. Some of the DHEA is converted to
Other medicines that can be related to the
to relative androgen predominance in the face of
pustules with inflammation;
the epidermal surface and is lined with epidermal cells.
As P. acnes increases in number, it uses sebum as a
androgens by a metabolic pathway, leading to
development of acne include lithium, cortisone-type
declining estrogen levels seen with menopause.
Grade 4: severe acne, large nodules and cysts, scarring.
nutritive source, causing sebum conversion to free
microcomedone development. With puberty in the
medicines, and anabolic (testosterone-type or
Neonates (just-born babies) can present with acne
The number of pilosebaceous units that appear on the
fatty acids, which are very irritating. The immune
female, DHEA is the primary source of androgens, since
androgenic) steroids. Some medicines used to treat
because of the intra-uterine hormonal stimulation from
This system considers the progression of severity from
face, upper neck, and chest is 9 times the number
system is activated by both the free fatty acids and
some of it is converted to androgens. With female
cancer, such as epidermal growth factor receptor
maternal hormones.
slightly visible comedones to inflammatory lesions to
found elsewhere on the body. The pilosebaceous unit is
the large amounts of P. acnes, and inflammation
puberty, both estrogen and progesterone increase as
inhibitors, can cause an acneiform (acne-like) rash.
multiple severe pustular and cystic lesions.
under stimulation at birth from maternal hormones,
thus ensues.
menarche (the beginning of menses) occurs and the
Although the rash looks like typical acne, closer
People with acne, especially teenagers, tend to
atrophies (becomes smaller and less active) during
ovaries begin to produce female hormones. Some of
inspection reveals the signature lesion of acne, the
self-medicate. Each year in the United States, more
Another system for grading acne divides the face into
childhood, and then re-emerges during adolescence,
• Abnormal keratinization causes overcornification
this ovarian estrogen is converted to androgens as
comedone, is absent.
than $100 million is spent on over-the-counter
regions and then counts the number of lesions. The
again due to hormonal stimulation. Hormonal
of skin, further contributing to pore obstruction
a byproduct.
products to treat acne.
lesion count can further be divided by type into
stimulation can occur also during menopause.
and inflammation.
Endocrine Disorders
comedones, inflammatory lesions, and nodular and
Progesterone itself has androgenic effects. The
Another rare but possible cause of acne is endocrine
People with acne, especially teenagers, tend to
cystic lesions. This is quite time-consuming and
increased severity of acne in male adolescents is due to
disorders of various types, which lead to overproduction
self-medicate. Each year in the US over $100 million is
probably more useful in research studies than in a
Microcomedones increase in size to form comedones.
their higher androgen secretion compared to females.
The primary cause of acne is obstruction of the
of androgenic substances.
spent on over-the-counter products to treat acne.
clinical setting.
The comedone, which may be open or closed, is the
As puberty passes, hormonal levels decrease and acne
pilosebaceous unit. Hormones, sebum, abnormal
essential focus lesion in acne. Open comedones
resolves. However, in adult women progesterone
keratinization, and bacteria contribute to the
Environmental Factors
(blackheads), have an enlarged pore due to the
increases in the 2 weeks before menses, causing effects
obstruction of the pilosebaceous unit in the
that are more androgenic and leading to the spike in
Environmental factors occasionally play a role in acne.
Young people employed in places where they come
pilosebaceous unit if pomade comes into contact
a variety of effects that include antibacterial activity,
with steroids to control inflammation, while severe
iS products helpful in treating acne include: EXTREME
into contact with grease, such as auto repair shops or
with the skin, leading to acne development. This
mild anti-inflammatory activity, lipid-dissolving
nodular cystic acne usually requires Accutane
PROTECT SPF 30, ECLIPSE SPF 50+,
fast-food restaurants, may experience a worsening
can be prevented by being careful to avoid facial
cleansing action to remove lipid plugs from pores, and
(isotretinoin, or 13-cis-retinoic acid). Accutane is a pill
EXFOLIATING ENZYME TREATMENT.
skin when placing these products on the hair.
desquamative activity to remove dead epithelial cells on
with significant potential side effects, usually reserved
the skin and pore surfaces, and encourage epithelial
for the most severe acne cases. It causes drying of the
• Cosmetics, including makeup and moisturizers,
skin, eyes, mouth, and mucus membranes in all people,
At the present time, we are unsure if stress can
that contain large amounts of oil can worsen acne.
as well as desquamation of skin. Because Accutane is
O'Daniel TG, "Multimodal Management of Atrophic Acne Scarring
in the Aging Face," Aesthetic Plast Surg. 2011
exacerbate acne or if the acne itself causes the
Two or more agents may be required for
teratogenic (tumor-causing) and will cause
increased stress. An increase in lesion number has been
• Acne is related to hormonal factors, as explained
non-inflammatory acne that is not responsive to a
malformations in 60% of exposed fetuses, doctors will
Kraft J et al, "Management of Acne," CMAJ. 2011
noted and may relate to relative increases in cortisol,
above. Young women may experience flare-ups
single agent, or for inflammatory acne. If two or more
never place a female patient on Accutane unless there
which is androgenic, with stress.
just prior to menses. Because of the hormonal
different agents are chosen, they should have different
is reliable protection against pregnancy. Accutane also
influences occurring during adolescence, it is an
mechanisms of action, so as to potentiate each other.
requires blood-test monitoring.
Webster GF, "Acne Vulgaris," BMJ. 2002Aug31;325:475-79.
PATIENT EDUCATION FACTS AND MYTHS
acne-prone period for both young men and
Bershad SV, "The Modern Age of Acne Therapy: A Review of
Current Treatment Options," Mt Sinai J Med,
There are many public misconceptions about acne.
women. The perimenopausal period is another
Common topical therapies include benzoyl peroxide,
Hormonal therapy with non-androgenic oral
Some important facts for general patient education are
acne-prone time for women.
topical antibiotics (clindamycin topical or erythromycin
contraceptives may be used to combat severe
Toyoda M et al, "Pathogenesis of Acne," Med Electron Microsc,
topical), topical retinoids (tretinoin, adapalene, or
inflammatory acne. If not effective, treatment with
• The treatment of acne requires some time. It will
tazarotene), azelaic acid, salicylic acid, milk and fruit
spironolactone, an anti-androgen, may be tried.
Webster GF, "Acne and Rosacea," Med Clin North Am,
• Acne is not caused by dirty skin. Washing the skin
not go away overnight but requires persistence
acids (also called alpha hydroxy acids, or AHAs, which
more, or more vigorously, is not warranted and will
and consistent, effective treatment. Usually, weeks
include glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, citric
Krowchuk DP, "Managing Acne in Adolescents," Ped Clin North Am,
not be helpful, and injury induced by vigorous
are required with any treatment before
acid, and mixed fruit acids), and products
Scars are often thought to be permanent, persist into
washing may cause more inflammation and induce
improvement is seen. When treatment is stopped
adulthood, and be treatable only with a procedure.
Krowchuk DP, "Treating Acne. A Practical Guide," Med Clin North
progression of lesions. The visible black part of the
prematurely, the acne returns.
However, superficial scarring can be improved with
blackhead is not dirt—it is melanin and oxidized
Sometimes the extraction (removal) of comedones with
topical products that have resurfacing activity.
Russell JJ, "Topical Therapy for Acne," Am Fam Phys,
material, and cannot be removed by washing.
• Deep scars are permanent. The object of
a small instrument, called a comedone extractor, may
continuing treatment and being consistent with
be done in the doctor's office. Some medical literature
Strasburger VC; "Acne. What every Pediatrician Should Know about
Each of these therapies, whether topical or systemic, has
Treatment," Ped Clin North Am, 1997Dec;44(6):1505-24.
• Dietary factors sometimes may relate to acne. The
treatment is to avoid progression to severe lesions
terms this surgery, although it is not surgery in the
a list of advantages, disadvantages, potential toxicities,
Western diet, which encourages insulin resistance
and scarring. Scar treatment has become
traditional sense and cannot be used to treat scarring.
Kligman AM; "The Treatment of Acne with Topical Retinoids: One
and contraindications depending upon its own unique
Man's Opinion," J Am Acad Dermatol,
and tends toward obesity, is high in sugars and
multimodal and now includes chemical peels,
Removal of comedone contents with a comedone
properties. Most of them may be used in combination,
simple carbohydrates. This type of diet predisposes
dermabrasion, ablative and non-ablative laser
extractor in the doctor's office is acceptable and
although Accutane is used alone as monotherapy. The
to acne development and worsens existing acne.
resurfacing, dermal fillers, and excision. These
helpful. It differs greatly from "picking at" lesions at
topical agents may be used singly for comedonal
Insulin resistance stimulates androgen receptors
techniques also may be combined with treatment
home, which causes more inflammation and is harmful.
non-inflammatory acne, but if this type of acne is highly
which then become more sensitive to androgens,
of the aging face.
inflammatory or non-responsive to therapy with a single
thus contributing to acne development.
Severe Inflammatory Acne
topical agent, then therapy with more than one agent is
Topical treatment alone will not be effective in treating
usually required.
• Therapy succeeds by preventing the formation of
Treatments for acne include counteracting androgens,
severe inflammatory acne, because it cannot penetrate
new acne lesions. Therefore, it is important to
decreasing inflammation, decreasing sebum
deeply enough through the skin's surface to treat the
PRODUCT RECOMMENDATIONS
treat all acne-prone skin, and not just single acne
production, preventing follicular plugging, and
most severely inflamed nodules and cysts. Severe acne
iS CLINICAL® products helpful in treating acne include:
lesions, with topical agents.
reducing P. acnes proliferation.
requires systemic treatment (medicine taken orally).
ACTIVE SERUM™, PRO-HEAL® SERUM ADVANCE ®
Systemic therapies cause distribution of the drug
HYDRA-COOL® SERUM, CLEANSING COMPLEX,
• Any practice that further traumatizes (injures) acne
Non-inflammatory Acne
throughout the entire body. Common systemic
WHITE LIGHTENING™ SERUM,
lesions contributes to more inflammation and
Non-inflammatory acne and comedones may be treated
therapies include oral antibiotics (erythromycin and the
WHITE LIGHTENING™ COMPLEX.
progression of disease. This includes picking at
with a single agent applied topically. Topical therapy
tetracyclines, including tetracycline, minocycline, and
lesions and wearing athletic gear over lesions.
refers to putting a treatment on top of the skin. There
doxycycline) and hormonal therapy (oral
• Use of pomade on hair may plug the
are a variety of single agents available, which may have
contraceptives). Cystic lesions also may be injected
All materials contained on this document are protected by United States copyright law. You may not modify, remove, delete, publish, transmit, reproduce or in any way exploit the content of this document, in whole or in part.
2014 Science of Skincare, LLC. All rights reserved.
Mild or comedonal acne consists of comedones
material within, are open to the surface, and have a
acne lesions during this time. With female menopause,
(blackheads and whiteheads) only and is
• Higher androgen levels cause the overproduction of
black color due to melanin pigment in the cells that
estrogen and progesterone levels decrease as the
non-inflammatory. Inflammatory acne consists of both
sebum, which can occur during direct elevation of
were shed and decomposed. Closed comedones
ovaries fail (stop hormone production). At this point,
comedones and a substantial number of inflammatory
androgens (during both male and female puberty) or
(whiteheads) have a layer of epithelial cells that covers
without the overriding effect of high estrogen and
Dr. Charlene DeHaven M.D.
ESTIMATING SEVERITY OF DISEASE
lesions (pustules and papules). Inflammatory lesions can
relatively higher androgen levels compared to
the pore and a tiny, microscopic opening to the skin
progesterone levels, DHEA from the adrenals again
Clinical Director, INNOVATIVE SKINCARE®
Unfortunately, the severity of acne is often overlooked
leave permanent scars. A mixture of both inflammatory
estrogen levels (during the premenstrual period,
surface, which is the pore of the pilosebaceous unit.
becomes important. The DHEA, which is androgenic
or minimized by physicians. Conversely, severity is often
and non-inflammatory acne exhibits all types of lesions
during female menopause).
because of its conversion to testosterone, causes the
overestimated by patients, especially adolescents, due
including severe inflammatory lesions (markedly
In the closed microcomedone or comedone, the
increase in acne seen with female menopause.
About 17 million Americans have acne. It is the most
to the severe social stigma that can develop as the
reddened pustules) and possibly cystic lesions (lesions
• Increased sebum production and desquamation
epithelial duct wall ruptures and the acne lesion
common skin disease treated by physicians. Acne can
result of even a few mild or moderate lesions. Since
more than 0.5 cm in diameter with a soft top that are
(flaking) of epithelial-lining cells contribute to
progresses from comedone to pustule or papule. The
OTHER CAUSES OF ACNE
appear at any age, although there are peaks of
acne most commonly involves the face, lesions are
losing their inflammation). It is most common to have a
obstruction of the pore and lead to formation of
term "cyst" is a misnomer and refers to what actually
incidence in adolescence and again for females near
readily obvious in social settings. Individuals with deep
mixture of lesions at any one time. Treatment is
the microcomedone. The microcomedone is very
is a large, inflamed, pus-filled nodule greater than 0.5
For adult females taking oral contraceptives (birth
the time of menopause. Acne and adolescence are so
inflammatory nodules and cysts may be scarred for life
chosen based on severity of disease, so this
small and cannot be seen. Alterations in sebum
cm in diameter in which the cell wall is composed of
control pills) can cause acne. The choice of which type
closely associated that 80–90% of all teenagers have at
in more than one way. Studies have shown that
estimation is important.
lipids interfere with normal sebocyte
inflammatory cells and scar tissue.
of birth control medicine to take is most important in
least some lesions at any given time.
persons who have moderate to severe acne in youth
differentiation, thus affecting sebum production.
determining its effect on acne. Most oral
frequently fail to realize their full potential in
ACNE CAUSATION AND PROGRESSION
Ratios of saturated to unsaturated fatty acids
A substantial number of severely inflamed pustules or
contraceptives contain both estrogens and progestins
In adolescence, acne affects both males and females.
finding jobs or choosing careers suitable to their
change. Squalene is one of the most common
papules leading to "cyst" development can be termed
The Pilosebaceous Unit
(synthetic progesterone). Those containing progestins
Boys tend to have more lesions and more severe
actual abilities.
lipids produced by the skin. During an
nodular cystic acne. The body will repair severe
that are more androgenic can contribute to acne. Pills
disease than do girls. This is probably due to the causal
The basic skin structure most commonly affected by
inflammatory process, such as acne, squalene can
inflammation with scarring. Scars are permanent, can
containing relatively more estrogen and a progestin
association with androgen (testosterone) levels. In
The most common measurement tool for acne is a
acne is the pilosebaceous unit, comprising the
be oxidized by free radicals and form squalene
be deep or superficial, and will persist throughout life.
that is less androgenic do not contribute to acne
adulthood, acne is more common in women,
grading system which classifies according to the
sebaceous gland, vellus hair, and pore (duct).
peroxide, which is particularly pro-inflammatory.
development and are sometimes used to treat acne.
particularly the week or 2 before menses and at the
severity of lesions in grades 1 through 4, as follows:
Hormonal influences are very important in acne
The "progesterone only" method of birth control,
onset of menopause. In menstruating females, the
The function of the sebaceous gland is to produce
• The bacterial organism involved in the
development and progression. Acne actually begins to
either by pill or by injection, can contribute to acne
occurrence of lesions prior to menses is related to the
Grade 1: mild acne, comedones present, minimal to no
sebum, an oily or lipid-based substance. It was once
pathogenesis (cause) of acne is P. acnes
develop at age 8 or 9, when adrenarche occurs.
progression via androgenic effects.
increase in progesterone levels after ovulation and just
thought that sebum had no particular function;
(Propionibacterium acnes). P. acnes is a normal
Adrenarche is the activation of the adrenal gland,
before menses. Progesterone has androgenic effects
Grade 2: moderate acne, some inflammation present,
however, recent research has shown that sebum
inhabitant of skin. However, the increased amount
occurring before puberty and associated with increased
Other Medications
and therefore causes these increases in acne lesions.
some papules and pustules present;
transports the antioxidant vitamin E to the skin's
of sebum and obstruction of the pore provide an
DHEA levels. DHEA is one of the hormones produced by
The occurrence in menopausal females is also related
Grade 3: moderately severe acne, larger nodules and
surface. The pore is the opening that carries sebum to
environment conducive to proliferation of P. acnes.
the adrenal gland. Some of the DHEA is converted to
Other medicines that can be related to the
to relative androgen predominance in the face of
pustules with inflammation;
the epidermal surface and is lined with epidermal cells.
As P. acnes increases in number, it uses sebum as a
androgens by a metabolic pathway, leading to
development of acne include lithium, cortisone-type
declining estrogen levels seen with menopause.
Grade 4: severe acne, large nodules and cysts, scarring.
nutritive source, causing sebum conversion to free
microcomedone development. With puberty in the
medicines, and anabolic (testosterone-type or
Neonates (just-born babies) can present with acne
The number of pilosebaceous units that appear on the
fatty acids, which are very irritating. The immune
female, DHEA is the primary source of androgens, since
androgenic) steroids. Some medicines used to treat
because of the intra-uterine hormonal stimulation from
This system considers the progression of severity from
face, upper neck, and chest is 9 times the number
system is activated by both the free fatty acids and
some of it is converted to androgens. With female
cancer, such as epidermal growth factor receptor
maternal hormones.
slightly visible comedones to inflammatory lesions to
found elsewhere on the body. The pilosebaceous unit is
the large amounts of P. acnes, and inflammation
puberty, both estrogen and progesterone increase as
inhibitors, can cause an acneiform (acne-like) rash.
multiple severe pustular and cystic lesions.
under stimulation at birth from maternal hormones,
thus ensues.
menarche (the beginning of menses) occurs and the
Although the rash looks like typical acne, closer
People with acne, especially teenagers, tend to
atrophies (becomes smaller and less active) during
ovaries begin to produce female hormones. Some of
inspection reveals the signature lesion of acne, the
self-medicate. Each year in the United States, more
Another system for grading acne divides the face into
childhood, and then re-emerges during adolescence,
• Abnormal keratinization causes overcornification
this ovarian estrogen is converted to androgens as
comedone, is absent.
than $100 million is spent on over-the-counter
regions and then counts the number of lesions. The
again due to hormonal stimulation. Hormonal
of skin, further contributing to pore obstruction
a byproduct.
products to treat acne.
lesion count can further be divided by type into
stimulation can occur also during menopause.
and inflammation.
Endocrine Disorders
comedones, inflammatory lesions, and nodular and
Progesterone itself has androgenic effects. The
Another rare but possible cause of acne is endocrine
People with acne, especially teenagers, tend to
cystic lesions. This is quite time-consuming and
increased severity of acne in male adolescents is due to
disorders of various types, which lead to overproduction
self-medicate. Each year in the US over $100 million is
probably more useful in research studies than in a
Microcomedones increase in size to form comedones.
their higher androgen secretion compared to females.
The primary cause of acne is obstruction of the
of androgenic substances.
spent on over-the-counter products to treat acne.
clinical setting.
The comedone, which may be open or closed, is the
As puberty passes, hormonal levels decrease and acne
pilosebaceous unit. Hormones, sebum, abnormal
essential focus lesion in acne. Open comedones
resolves. However, in adult women progesterone
keratinization, and bacteria contribute to the
Environmental Factors
(blackheads), have an enlarged pore due to the
increases in the 2 weeks before menses, causing effects
obstruction of the pilosebaceous unit in the
that are more androgenic and leading to the spike in
Environmental factors occasionally play a role in acne.
Young people employed in places where they come
pilosebaceous unit if pomade comes into contact
a variety of effects that include antibacterial activity,
with steroids to control inflammation, while severe
iS products helpful in treating acne include: EXTREME
into contact with grease, such as auto repair shops or
with the skin, leading to acne development. This
mild anti-inflammatory activity, lipid-dissolving
nodular cystic acne usually requires Accutane
PROTECT SPF 30, ECLIPSE SPF 50+,
fast-food restaurants, may experience a worsening
can be prevented by being careful to avoid facial
cleansing action to remove lipid plugs from pores, and
(isotretinoin, or 13-cis-retinoic acid). Accutane is a pill
EXFOLIATING ENZYME TREATMENT.
skin when placing these products on the hair.
desquamative activity to remove dead epithelial cells on
with significant potential side effects, usually reserved
the skin and pore surfaces, and encourage epithelial
for the most severe acne cases. It causes drying of the
• Cosmetics, including makeup and moisturizers,
skin, eyes, mouth, and mucus membranes in all people,
At the present time, we are unsure if stress can
that contain large amounts of oil can worsen acne.
as well as desquamation of skin. Because Accutane is
O'Daniel TG, "Multimodal Management of Atrophic Acne Scarring
in the Aging Face," Aesthetic Plast Surg. 2011
exacerbate acne or if the acne itself causes the
Two or more agents may be required for
teratogenic (tumor-causing) and will cause
increased stress. An increase in lesion number has been
• Acne is related to hormonal factors, as explained
non-inflammatory acne that is not responsive to a
malformations in 60% of exposed fetuses, doctors will
Kraft J et al, "Management of Acne," CMAJ. 2011
noted and may relate to relative increases in cortisol,
above. Young women may experience flare-ups
single agent, or for inflammatory acne. If two or more
never place a female patient on Accutane unless there
which is androgenic, with stress.
just prior to menses. Because of the hormonal
different agents are chosen, they should have different
is reliable protection against pregnancy. Accutane also
influences occurring during adolescence, it is an
mechanisms of action, so as to potentiate each other.
requires blood-test monitoring.
Webster GF, "Acne Vulgaris," BMJ. 2002Aug31;325:475-79.
PATIENT EDUCATION FACTS AND MYTHS
acne-prone period for both young men and
Bershad SV, "The Modern Age of Acne Therapy: A Review of
Current Treatment Options," Mt Sinai J Med,
There are many public misconceptions about acne.
women. The perimenopausal period is another
Common topical therapies include benzoyl peroxide,
Hormonal therapy with non-androgenic oral
Some important facts for general patient education are
acne-prone time for women.
topical antibiotics (clindamycin topical or erythromycin
contraceptives may be used to combat severe
Toyoda M et al, "Pathogenesis of Acne," Med Electron Microsc,
topical), topical retinoids (tretinoin, adapalene, or
inflammatory acne. If not effective, treatment with
• The treatment of acne requires some time. It will
tazarotene), azelaic acid, salicylic acid, milk and fruit
spironolactone, an anti-androgen, may be tried.
Webster GF, "Acne and Rosacea," Med Clin North Am,
• Acne is not caused by dirty skin. Washing the skin
not go away overnight but requires persistence
acids (also called alpha hydroxy acids, or AHAs, which
more, or more vigorously, is not warranted and will
and consistent, effective treatment. Usually, weeks
include glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, citric
Krowchuk DP, "Managing Acne in Adolescents," Ped Clin North Am,
not be helpful, and injury induced by vigorous
are required with any treatment before
acid, and mixed fruit acids), and products
Scars are often thought to be permanent, persist into
washing may cause more inflammation and induce
improvement is seen. When treatment is stopped
adulthood, and be treatable only with a procedure.
Krowchuk DP, "Treating Acne. A Practical Guide," Med Clin North
progression of lesions. The visible black part of the
prematurely, the acne returns.
However, superficial scarring can be improved with
blackhead is not dirt—it is melanin and oxidized
Sometimes the extraction (removal) of comedones with
topical products that have resurfacing activity.
Russell JJ, "Topical Therapy for Acne," Am Fam Phys,
material, and cannot be removed by washing.
• Deep scars are permanent. The object of
a small instrument, called a comedone extractor, may
continuing treatment and being consistent with
be done in the doctor's office. Some medical literature
Strasburger VC; "Acne. What every Pediatrician Should Know about
Each of these therapies, whether topical or systemic, has
Treatment," Ped Clin North Am, 1997Dec;44(6):1505-24.
• Dietary factors sometimes may relate to acne. The
treatment is to avoid progression to severe lesions
terms this surgery, although it is not surgery in the
a list of advantages, disadvantages, potential toxicities,
Western diet, which encourages insulin resistance
and scarring. Scar treatment has become
traditional sense and cannot be used to treat scarring.
Kligman AM; "The Treatment of Acne with Topical Retinoids: One
and contraindications depending upon its own unique
Man's Opinion," J Am Acad Dermatol,
and tends toward obesity, is high in sugars and
multimodal and now includes chemical peels,
Removal of comedone contents with a comedone
properties. Most of them may be used in combination,
simple carbohydrates. This type of diet predisposes
dermabrasion, ablative and non-ablative laser
extractor in the doctor's office is acceptable and
although Accutane is used alone as monotherapy. The
to acne development and worsens existing acne.
resurfacing, dermal fillers, and excision. These
helpful. It differs greatly from "picking at" lesions at
topical agents may be used singly for comedonal
Insulin resistance stimulates androgen receptors
techniques also may be combined with treatment
home, which causes more inflammation and is harmful.
non-inflammatory acne, but if this type of acne is highly
which then become more sensitive to androgens,
of the aging face.
inflammatory or non-responsive to therapy with a single
thus contributing to acne development.
Severe Inflammatory Acne
topical agent, then therapy with more than one agent is
Topical treatment alone will not be effective in treating
usually required.
• Therapy succeeds by preventing the formation of
Treatments for acne include counteracting androgens,
severe inflammatory acne, because it cannot penetrate
new acne lesions. Therefore, it is important to
decreasing inflammation, decreasing sebum
deeply enough through the skin's surface to treat the
PRODUCT RECOMMENDATIONS
treat all acne-prone skin, and not just single acne
production, preventing follicular plugging, and
most severely inflamed nodules and cysts. Severe acne
iS CLINICAL® products helpful in treating acne include:
lesions, with topical agents.
reducing P. acnes proliferation.
requires systemic treatment (medicine taken orally).
ACTIVE SERUM™, PRO-HEAL® SERUM ADVANCE ®,
Systemic therapies cause distribution of the drug
HYDRA-COOL® SERUM, CLEANSING COMPLEX,
• Any practice that further traumatizes (injures) acne
Non-inflammatory Acne
throughout the entire body. Common systemic
WHITE LIGHTENING™ SERUM,
lesions contributes to more inflammation and
Non-inflammatory acne and comedones may be treated
therapies include oral antibiotics (erythromycin and the
WHITE LIGHTENING™ COMPLEX.
progression of disease. This includes picking at
with a single agent applied topically. Topical therapy
tetracyclines, including tetracycline, minocycline, and
lesions and wearing athletic gear over lesions.
refers to putting a treatment on top of the skin. There
doxycycline) and hormonal therapy (oral
• Use of pomade on hair may plug the
are a variety of single agents available, which may have
contraceptives). Cystic lesions also may be injected
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Juan Pablo Aguilar Andrade Derecho administrativo y transigibilidad Juan Pablo Aguilar Andrade* SUMARIO: 1. Sobre el concepto de transigibilidad en el Derecho Ad- ministrativo. 2. Transigibilidad y discrecionalidad. 2.1. La búsqueda de las materias transigibles 2.2. Transigibilidad y Derecho Administrativo.
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